Lets Talk Liberian English

As I type this Mr. Andrews, the landlord for LEAD's office in Buchanan, is having an entire conversation about rent prices, using an allegory of new and old mats at the medium for the conversation.

An excerpt from Allen: "When you make new mat, don't you have to sit on the old one?"

Mr. Andrews has come all the way to Monrovia to try to raise the monthly rent on us during mid-contract. As it turns out, he's not being sinister, he just has an emergency in the family and needs to come up with some extra money. Allen is explaining to him that while we are in the midst of one contract, he has no right to raise the rent price.

Furthermore, we are being good tenants, and it would not be wise of him to treat us poorly during this lease period when we are probably going to be signing another one with him. Allen goes on to explain that, because of the relationship he has with LEAD, he can come and request additional funds from us to help him out, but LEAD is certainly under no obligation to do so.

Liberian English is so much more than just an accent; its an entire methodology of speaking with rules, making it a dialect (as far as I'm concerned). Sure there is an accent, but that's just part of it, and overcoming it is just the first step of understanding. You see, you'll also notice that Liberians cut off the end of many words and even entire middle syllables, but there is a predictability to it, so with time you can anticipate it, even replicate it.

But that's not all! You also need to learn which words are replaced by others because you might not pick up the meaning of what is actually spoken if the speaker is not using all the same words you would expect. An easy example is one I mentioned in the last blog post: any 'SUV', as we say in North America, is considered to be a 'jeep'. You can explain to a Liberian that Jeep is a branch of the automobile manufacturer Chrysler and not a type of vehicle all you want, but you will only be wasting your time.

Another example would be if my colleague Andrew Davis would take/walk/bring the registration payment for my jeep over to the Ministry of Finance. Instead he would say "I'm going to carry the payment over there this afternoon." Similarly, when Allen hands me the keys after taking a stop at Mama Sallie's restaurant on the way back from Ganta and says "I think you can carry us to Monrovia" he's saying that he's tired having just drove the really rough road from Ganta to Gbarnga, and I should drive the rest of the way.

Now account for the Liberian sense of humor; dry and layered. It takes some time to pick up, and much longer to be able to replicate, but I've become a huge fan.

[Liberians speak LOUDLY!]

I began this post talking about how Liberians use allegories. Its something you really need to be looking out for to be able to have a full understanding of what's going on because they are used in all types of conversations. Now for a few allegories/sayings that come to mind:

"That man has snake eyes"

That guy seems to always have frown on his face, or he simple has a face that looks like its always mad.

"Let sleeping dogs lie"

The issue at hand is not correct the way it is, and it is a problem, but its not one that is going to 'bite us in the ass' as it is now, so lets just go ahead and leave it be.

"That man is stretching eye at you!"

My Liberian passenger is noting that I've offended someone with my driving, and he's showing it with his face.

My all time favorite still remains the one Allen taught me while driving in traffic. He was riding shotgun when a pan pan (motorcycle taxi) cuts me off, nearly killing himself and his passenger.

Allen "I beg yea, rice eh swee -oh!"

Literally translated: "I beg you, rice is sweet."

Translated for meaning: "Rice is tasty, and you probably enjoy eating it. If you'd like to continue to be alive to be able to do so, I advice you not to ride your motorcycle like that!"

If you can pick up on all that, then you just need to add 'oh' to end of about half your sentences, and you're all set!

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COMMENTS PLEASE!

While I was back in North America I was happy to hear that people were actually reading my posts, which is a huge motivation to keep posting. I created a hit counter for the page (on the right, bottom), but it keeps track of each and every visit, including my own, and including anyone who has it set as their home page (yes, the blog is THAT well followed).

However, I'd love to hear your feedback so comment away! For example, if you're an English major and it grinds you to hear me use 'allegory' twice when its really a parable or metaphor or whatever, or you hate how many commas I use, or if you don't approve of my recent love of the italics function for posting, feel free to have at it.

Also, email/comment your questions! Blog post topic request? Let me know!

Eat your heart out Alumni Association

Last Thursday was Thanksgiving, a holiday for spending time with close family, giving thanks for all the blessings we have. For the second time in a row I spent the holiday away from home. Last year I went to a restaurant with my housemate and some friends who I didn't know too well. It was good food, but I wasn't sharing it with those I was close to, so I went home from the restaurant feeling quite homesick.

This year was different though! I wish I could have spent it with the family, but I did have my close friends. Friends of mine run the bar 'Tides' where they held a potluck with 'authentic' Thanksgiving foods! I tried my hand at green bean casserole, something I'd never made before in any country, and had to improvise with a bit of spicy extruded snack bits to get that crispy layer on top. I'm told by close sources that it was pretty good. The meal in general was fantastic, and I felt almost miserably full at the end of the night.

At the Thanksgiving potluck with a few of the folks I'm happy to call friends!

Before we sat down to eat my friends insisted on participating in the 'go around and say what you're thankful for' tradition. When it came to me, I knew exactly what I was thankful for. I'm thankful to have learned to live in the moment this past year; to enjoy life as it comes instead of always pulling myself toward some future goal or event and ignoring the present. I'm thankful for my close friends here in Liberia who have enabled me to do that, to God for constantly watching over me in that process, and for you, my friends and family back home (or wherever you are) who have encouraged me in my venture to Liberia, letting me know that its okay to be here, where I am now, and away from home.

This first week back has been a ride! I'm so happy to be back with my friends and co-workers that I've missed. I was homesick for the places of Liberia that I've come to love, and I've even learned to pick my fights when it comes to the inevitable irritations. I've been busy re-settling in. There has been a lot of hanging out with friends, already one trip this past weekend (into the bush - I mean legitimate jungle - to help a friend set up a camp) and plenty of details to work out. My biggest daytime activities last week were looking for an apartment (I'm crashing at my friend Richard's apartment for the moment while I find long-term housing), and fixing the Land Cruiser I've been driving.

I came back to find the 'jeep' in need of a LOT of work:

3 used tires $105

alternator $120

used front shock absorber $50

locally made suspension bushings $10

glow plug module $50

engine oil $45

oil filter $15

fuel filters $30

car electrician $30

labor for all that plus repairing both front door windows, both rear doors and the horn $25

TOTAL: $480

While the mechanic had the jeep anyways, I asked him to take a look at the 4x4, which has been out of service even well before I took possession of the vehicle, with the front drive shaft removed and rolling around in the back seat. We were happy to discover that it will only take the repair of a u-bolt ($55) and new bolts ($5) to get it working again! My friends occasionally chide me for being the son of a former trucking yet getting stuck so often - in the mud, on wet grass... - but conveniently ignore the fact that I'm driving a vehicle with crippled 4x4 and bald tires. Well no more! I figure with the whiteman price to get pulled out of the mud at around $10USD/incident, the extra repair price will have paid for itself in around six months.

A souvenir purchased at the book store while back in Grand Rapids. I can guarantee you this is the first and only vehicle in Liberia sporting a Calvin sticker.

As you can imagine, I wasn't too impressed with the damage that over $500 in unexpected repair bills would do to my vehicle fuel/maintenance budget, and I'll now almost certainly go over budget on that line item. I ask you to please consider making a donation to help offset these costs. If it helps, you can think of it as your year-end tax deductible Christmas gift of 4x4 to Derek. As always, your continued monthly and one-time donations are very much appreciated!

Well, its 5:00 and I still need to finish up the monthly prayer calendar, a calendar of daily items of prayer relating to LEAD, its partners, Liberia and West Africa. If you'd like to check it out, you can download it at leadinliberia.org.

Reuniting with Ghana

For anyone wondering, yes you can make it to Ghana without a visa in advance, but no I don't recommend it. I checked in fine in Grand Rapids, and didn't run into problems getting on my Delta flight to Atlanta, but it was there that I had my worries. You see, navigating your way through the airport in Ghana without a visa is simply a matter of cost, but getting aboard a flight to the country without the respective visa bares the risk of not even getting on board.

Mom and Dad seeing me off at the airport after a busy day of errands and packing. Love you!

The Delta reps called all non-Ghanaian passport holders up front to check visas and, when asked what my final destination was, I informed them it was Liberia, which is technically true and is a country for which I hold a residency permit, but I dodged a bullet when they didn't ask how soon I'd be continuing on. There was no more trouble boarding the plane, although I didn't breath easy until the wheels left the tarmac.

11 hours later we touched down in Accra where I unexpectedly and delightfully found a 'Visas on Arrival' desk, behind which sat two immigration officers who ask very few questions, accepted the standard $150 fee (NOT a bribe), and after waiting about 30 minutes, directed me onward, even allowing me to bypass the rest of the immigration desks.

Pearl Budu, a longtime friend from Calvin, Calvin Phonathon, Semester in Ghana, and elsewhere picked me up from the airport and we made our way to the University of Ghana, for a quick drive through and a stop at the Basement Restaurant, (where we enjoyed Jollof Rice and Star Beer, staples of any time spend in the country) before heading on to the Budu residence.

While in Ghana I am staying at Professor David and Susan Hoekema, who normally live in Grand Haven, MI and are currently leading a group of 16 or so Calvin students on their semester in Ghana. Pearl, myself and the Hoekema's had fun comparing the differences between the Fall '07 and '10 semesters. As it happens, the current group may be described as more 'reserved' although perhaps more involved in cultural events. The '07 group may have been a bit more 'independent' and 'exploratory'. Oh, and to my '07 folks they've got it cushy: WIFI and wireless printer in the Calvin room, cellphones provided for everyone, and they get $90/week on food over our $40(?).

This morning I was picked up by Renita and we headed over to the Hopeline Institute office to meet with staffmembers Fanny and Juliette, and peer mentoring program participants Amma, Ravina and Prosper. Fanny and Juliette explained Hopeline's structure and how they operate their peer mentoring program; one LEAD would like to add to its mentoring program. Amma, Ravina and Prosper shared their experiences too. What most impressed me were some of the unique and unexpected benefits they were getting from their mentoring relationships. I'll go into more of that on another blog post, devoted to the new direction of LEAD's mentoring program. I shared some resources, and ran through LEAD's mentoring program handbook, explaining the progress we have made in Liberia over the last year.

Renita and Fanny, Director of the Hopeline Institute.

Renita and I stopped by a few [impressive!] businesses before heading back to her place; furniture maker and a welder (both do MUCH more that those descriptions give them credit for) before heading to her place. I'll get to meet her two kids Hannah and Noah -who I've heard about so many times, but never met - once Renita gets back from picking them up from school. Dinner here tonight, then hanging out with Pearl and Amma tonight. Bywell bar anyone?

Tomorrow we go back to Hopeline to meet up for lunch before continuing on to visit a few Village Savings Loans groups (VSLs) made of groups of 25 or so people each. It an interesting program, one that offers a savings option for Ghanaians who can't access banks, but desperately need that service. In Liberia, people actually pay to save their 'daily Susu', giving a small amount for 30 days, and then getting 29 days worth back at the end of the month. With these VSLs, each member saves a certain amount each week and then loans are given to clients for periods of three months. There are also conditions that allow individuals to access funds in cases of emergency. Then, at the end of nine months the money and interest is divided among everyone. Very cool. See http://reedsinthewind.blogspot.com/ for a much better explanation.

Saturday I hop on an Ethiopian Airways (prop plane) flight from Accra over to Monrovia's local Spriggs Airfield. Pro: saving some money, and an hour drive out to the Robertsfield International Airfield. Con: its quite likely I'll loose some luggage.

Its great to be back in West Africa! I already feel inspired by the work being done, and I can't wait to get back into it. Monrovia friends: see you soon!

Zero Day

After a great two and a half months back home in Michigan and Ontario, today I head back to West Africa! Thanks so much to everyone, its been great seeing you all and catching up. Lets keep in touch (stay tuned for SO many blog posts...) and as always, I envy your thoughts, prayers and encouragement.

At 5:30 I fly out of Grand Rapids for Atlanta, where I'll catch a connecting flight to Accra, Ghana. I'll stay there for a few days, sharing some ideas with the Partners Worldwide affiliate Hopeline Institute - and catching up with Ghana! - before heading on to Monrovia's Spriggs Airfield on Saturday.

Wish me well on this next six months, and keep me in your thoughts and prayers particularly today as I attempt to make my way onto Delta's flights and into Ghana without a Ghanaian visa... Yea, its embarrassing, but since I have my Liberian residency permit, getting a Ghanaian visa was not on my mind until Thursday, when it was too late to send my passport off to Washington. I can get a visa upon arrival from the Ghanaian immigration, who will surely penalize me financially for my foolishness, but the bigger concern is the Delta staff, who may not allow me to board without the visa. Hopefully, the proof of my onward ticket to Liberia on Ethiopian Airlines, a letter of invitation from the Hopeline Institute, and my boyish good looks will get me through.

So here's hoping. I hope to update you soon, from Ghana, to let you all know its been a success. Why do I do this to myself?

Sporadic Random Thoughts

That's my new policy toward blogging. I honestly wish I could use Twitter from Liberia... maybe I'll see if we can pull some strings and make it happen. The reason for saying so is that I think I'd be more motivated if I could put thoughts to the blog as they come to me. Perhaps I need a notepad for that type of thing. Nah, probably not my style.

Here's a few thoughts that passed between my ears in the past two months of being home:

More than ever I'm sure that Liberians and Americans are more intrinsically alike that we think. Only situations and histories shape our behaviors and thought patterns. The histories that have shaped us can't be altered, but the context of our current behaviors can. When 60mph winds blow out power on 28th street, Grand Rapidian drivers prove themselves to be just as inwardly motivated as Liberian ones. And I'm pretty sure that if it weren't for fear of tickets from the authorities or scorn from onlookers, we'd be driving in the sidewalks and turning lanes too.

The fall in Michigan is fantastic!

I LOVE being able to choose between more than Heinenken and Club beers. Wow.

I love visiting Ontario, and my amazing friends there.

America has an amazing middle class. In Liberia there are poles of very poor and very rich with, quite honestly, not much in-between, especially when I compare it to other developing countries I've visited. Its refreshing to see an economy where regular Janes and Joes can make a respectable living through regular types of meaningful work.

I asked Allen what his most and least favorite things were about America. I can't give justice to his full answer, but I'll paraphrase.

Favorites:

-Government support of private enterprise. During Allen's time in Grand Rapids, Baltimore, New York and DC, he was thoroughly impressed by the support structures that the American government has put in place to facilitate entrepreneurs in their endeavors.

-Work ethic. Americans find work to be rewarding, and there's honor in it, even in non-glamorous work. It drives the country forward.

Non-favorites:

-Abuse of freedom. Americans tend to think their own personal freedom can extend overtop of other individuals personal freedoms.

-Time. Americans have no sense of the real value of time: spending it! Despite all of our modern conveniences we never have enough of it, and we're always rushing, rarely spending enough time to develop those important relationships.

I suggested the lack of good Liberian food, but he politely suggested that with the aid of Chinese buffets, he'd be able to swing it for extended periods. Perhaps we'd just need to import some peppa' sauce.

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Now for a few photos:

A quick 30 hour layover in Brussels on the way back to check out the sites.

At home in St. Marys, Ontario with my parents!

Dinner meeting with members of the West Africa team during the Partners Worldwide conference.

No ALL work. My boss Allen in the US for the first time, so Craig's Cruisers was in order.

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I'm headed back Nov. 16. I'll first be flying through Accra for a few days of meetings and reuniting with my favorite open air bar on the University of Ghana's campus, but then its on to Liberia. The next six months will be similar to the past year, with some different focuses, but stay tuned for the next post when I'll offer more insights on that.

Eight to Ten Days

As I'm sure you all know (because you're holding your breath) I'll be flying out of Roberts International Airport next Sunday evening (eight days), spending a day in Brussels, eating chocolate, dining on waffles, drinking Belgian whites, and biking around the city, before flying back to Grand Rapids, MI, arriving Tuesday evening (ten days). Its been a good run, but I'll be happy to be home. This is by far the longest I've ever been away from my home, family and friends, and I'm a tad eager to see you all again.

Lets touch on the recent happenings. At work, my main priority has been preparing for my two month absence, and transitioning out of the daily activities of the LEAD mentoring relationships. Primarily, this means putting the mechanisms in place for mentors and entrepreneurs to communicate with each other so that they don't need third party intervention to prompt the scheduling of phone calls. Its also means finishing the last section of the LEAD mentoring program handbook. For whatever reason, I can't find a good (and brief) resource on Liberian history and culture. It seems everything I find is much too long for my purposes, and I haven't been feeling particularly motivated to write my own.

LEAD client Amie Kamara is impressive. She's only in her twenties, but with the help of business training and several loans she has expanded from a small table to a large container with several more tables outside. She also happens to get fed up with you if you take too long interviewing her and then take too many photos.

Enough shop talk. Its amazing how at any social gathering among friends, if there is even one new friend among us, the conversation inevitably turns to 'what are you doing here?', 'what's your role?', and the all engrossing, 'how can we collaborate on such-and-such?'. Networking is powerful, but its gotten to the point where I bore even myself when I talk about work. Also, talk is cheap, but sometimes I wonder if as an NGO community we spend more time 'netorking' and playing with our acronyms and buzzwords than we do actually working on our current projects. Okay, I started this paragraph with 'enough shop talk' and then proceeded to talk about...aaargghhhhh!

Here we go: the fun stuff. Lets see, last week I got to go to my colleague Charlie's graduation ceremony and after party. Charlie graduated in Business Management from UMU and is currently manages LEAD's loan tracking software. The graduation ceremony was, well, long but I had a chance to walk around the compound and check out the attached riverfront golf course. Green fees are $15, $5 for a caddy, $10 for unlimited balls at the driving range... I may bring my clubs back with me.

Me and Charlie, about to head over to the Unity Conference Center

BFFs Charlie and Amanda goofing off before the ceremony

Also fun was the chopper trip I recently took with some friends. Our friends Hein and Claus were gracious enough to let Joe, Andrea, Marjolein and myself go up for a quick tour of the greater Monrovia area. Segran, now also a good buddy, is a great pilot who was eager to see just how far over a chopper can go and show how we could fly up the St. Paul River about 5 meters off the water. Very cool.

Joe (left) taking in the sights while Segran (right) does some pilot stuff

Vaitown Neighborhood, next to the Freeport of Monrovia

Marjolein, Segran and Andrea join for a post-flight pose

Lots to do this week: buying Liberian trinkets and souvenirs and whatnot to take back to the US, picking up various items that I'm toting back to the US for friends, getting my Liberian residency permit, finishing up a few work items, moving my things to the new apartment I'll be staying at when I get back, packing my bags and saying goodbye to friends.

I'll be in GR from August 31 to about September 9, then in Ontario until about September 20, then in Michigan for the most part until I head back to LIB around Nov. 1!

Rumor Control

The rumors are true.

After over ten months of trying hard to reassure myself that one year in Liberia would be plenty, I've accepted an extension to my internship with LEAD. Upon landing in GR on August 31, I'll be spending two months reconnecting with friends and family, hangin' with the nephew I've never met, camping, sailing, working odd jobs, renting out my house, and planning / fundraising for a return to West Africa at the beginning of November where I will stick around until May, 2011.

Allen originally extended the invitation to stay on many months ago, but I'd always deflect any kind of commitment. I thought one year would be enough, and that after that I'd feel inspired to move on, do something else, and be able to tick off the 'spend significant time overseas' check box. But when going through my last quarterly evaluation, I began to really think hard about what roles LEAD and Liberia have now played in my life. I've carefully thought it through and I feel strongly led and excited to make a comeback tour.

Hmm, okay that may be overstating it a little bit but allow me to add this context: I do feel inspired to come back, however right now I'm exhausted; fed up with some cultural attributes, and I'm even a bit apathetic. I struggle to work up the motivation to make the extra effort to connect with those around me, and some daily tasks even seem a bit daunting. Simply put, I think its a sign of this being the longest I've ever been separated from the family, friends, activities and surroundings that I love and am used to.

Despite these frustrations, my expat friends in town are highly encouraging of me to stick around (I'm fun) and have all reassured me that two months back home will leave me hopping and skipping, ready to get back into the thick of it. I've also told many people that if I make the active choice of committing to more time knowing full well what I'm getting myself into, I've only me to blame for any frustrations I may have...

When it came time to make a decision, I did it the same way I did when I bought my house, when I chose a college before that, and when I tried to figure out who to ask to senior banquet before that: with a pro/con list. In an effort to explain my decision and stem the tide of angry friends and family, I'll share my LIBERIA vs. NOT LIBERIA list with you.

First, NOT LIBERIA:

-If I were to return to Liberia I would have to be away from family and friends for six more months.

-I would have to deal with six more months of culture stress.

-I would have to do more fundraising.

Now... LIBERIA:

-LEAD is at an exciting point. Its maturing quickly and I'd love to witness it as it continues to do so, especially if it means getting to work with Allen and the rest of the staff longer.

-I've noticed that I've developed a sense of 'ownership' with Liberia. I get a little hurt inside when people do things that harm the country, and I want to do my part to help its development.

-I'm really interested in the business mentoring program I've been working on, and I'd like to develop it further so that its model can be implemented elsewhere.

-There may be opportunity to work with some of the other Partners Worldwide affiliates in West Africa and I'd love learn more about what they are doing.

-I will get to work on some other fun projects, like planning a conference on the topic of marketing (a business skill lacking in Liberia second only to customer service, the topic of this past conference), and also seeing if LEAD could be a good Kiva field partner.

-My motorcycle accident set me back in terns of surfing, and I want six more months to get good. (I didn't say they were selfless reasons)

-I'll be back in time for the 2011 summer sailing season on Gauntlet! (although I may miss out on spring cleaning...sorry Guy and guys)

-I love my Liberia friends! (although its a bummer when they leave all the time)

-Expat newbs TOTALLY look up to you if you've been around for over a year, especially if you actually decided to stay on longer than originally intended.

-I'm not ready for grad school yet and more overseas experience will better prepare me for it.

-When it comes down to it, its only another six months, which will pass by quickly.

-With few other options available to me outside of Liberia which are directly related to my chosen vocation, all of these PROs clearly outweigh the CONs.

There you have it. Upon leaving Liberia 'for good' at the beginning of May 2011, I will have spent two American Thanksgivings, two Halloweens, two Christmases, two New Years', two Easters and I will have turned 24 and 25 in Liberia. I'll be around for the beginnings of the 2011 presidential elections which should be exciting and I'll make it just in time for the beginnings of next year's surf season.

I'm lookin' forward to meeting up with as many of you as possible in September and October!

Until then, keep your stick on the ice, Derek